THE deer started it, jumping out in front of the car, startling the bejesus out of us. She scarpered down the single-track road, helpfully leading the way to our destination, before clearing the fence in one graceful leap to the bewilderment of a cow standing having its dinner.
Then there was the blackbird who thought he was a rooster, who battered his beak on our bedroom window at six o’clock in the morning; the rabbit who shot out of the ploughed field as we walked past, nearly tripping us up; and the spectacular, sudden flight of a pheasant right in front of us as we walked through the fields to the old standing stones.
“I like the animals round here,” approved the seven-year-old. “They come out to say hello.”
"Round here" is Balbinny, a place of escape where there is no escaping nature. A new development, situated halfway between Forfar and Brechin in the north-east of the country, it comprises luxury self-catering accommodation set on a family farm. There are three steadings, built with corrugated roofs and recycled stone from the original farm buildings, and two soon-to-be-available grass-roofed brochs, which nestle neatly into the landscape.
All boast jaw-dropping views over rolling farmland and the river South Esk, towards the Angus Glens and the Cairngorms.
Inside is just as lovely – tasteful, contemporary décor throughout two en-suite bedrooms; private garden areas; oak and glass feature staircases and modern granite worktopped kitchens. The attention to detail is faultless – from simple, cosy throws to flat-screen televisions; wireless music to glass-fronted, heated balcony, everything has been considered.
(I’ll admit I was sceptical about just how heated a heated balcony can be, especially in a Scottish summer that was already having an identity crisis with high winds and temperatures more suited to January than June. But it was, in fact, pleasantly warm, even with the stiff breeze careering up the glen, and we spent a leisurely couple of hours in the evening, enjoying the view.)
The next morning, it was still blustery but dry, so we took a stroll up the road from the steadings to Aberlemno. The walk is made much easier by new fenced, field paths, thoughtfully created by Balbinny owner David Milne in a bid to make negotiating the narrow country roads and busier main ones a lot more appealing.
The boys – Archie, 11, and seven-year-old Harry – were intrigued by the Pictish stones, which appear at the side of the main road through the village and down at its church.
Some of the best surviving examples of Pictish carvings, they depict a variety of scenes including angels, hunting and a battle.
No-one really knows much about why the stones are there, but they could be linked to the nearby fort of Finavon, rumoured to be the residence of a Pictish chieftain, and the Battle of Nechtansmere in 685AD in which the Picts were victorious.
Back at Balbinny after our brisk walk, it was time to explore the grounds and facilities. Because it is so new, Balbinny remains a work-in-progress, with tennis courts on the way, but the gym and pool are already up and running.
Again, the attention to detail is exceptional. Both the swimming pool and six-person Jacuzzi are heated using environmentally friendly air source technology, the fitness suite boasts an impressive selection of treadmills, cross trainers and spin bikes, there is a family changing area, and the whole facility spills out on to decking from which to enjoy those wonderful views.
It’s hard to concentrate on the exercising and the swimming, because of the views, but both pool and gym are excellent. A range of beauty and therapeutic treatments from massages to manicures is available so while the boys enjoyed a swim, I took the chance to unwind with a pedicure, administered by the lovely beautician, Maureen, in a quiet treatment room at the back of the suite.
There is much to do in the surrounding area, if you want to venture further afield – Glamis Castle, the childhood home of the Queen Mother and the impressive House of Dun are around 20 minutes’ drive away, while Dundee, the City of Discovery in the middle of a massive regeneration programme, is close by.
We opted for the beach, when the sun finally came out, and it’s one of Scotland’s finest. Lunan Bay, about half an hour’s drive from Balbinny, is a beautiful expanse of golden-white sand, complete with intriguing caves, rock pools and giant dunes.
From its northern end at Boddin Point, located about three miles south of Montrose, Lunan Bay extends for around two miles south to Ethie Haven. It is popular with surfers, horse riders, walkers and fishermen, as well as birdwatchers keen to get a glimpse of great grey shrikes and rough-legged buzzards.
There’s also a decent diner at Lunan Bay, if you don’t bring a picnic – great home-cooked food and cakes, ice cream and cold drinks (or coffee and tea when you need to heat your hands up after a bracing walk …)
But while it’s fun to explore all that the north-east has to offer, it’s also very hard to tear yourself away from Balbinny, with its all-mod-cons approach to self-catering, its stylish comfort, its wonderful views.
This is top of the range luxury at top of the range prices, a little gem of a hideaway and a true get-away-from-it-all destination in a beautiful part of Scotland.
Just watch out for the wildlife.
Ann Fotheringham and family were guests of Balbinny Steadings. A three-night weekend break in Prosen in July for two adults and two children costs £920. For off-season, high-season, short break and midweek prices, visit www.balbinny.com An hour’s pedicure costs from £35.
For more information about the Aberlemno sculptured stones, visit www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
For further details about Lunan Bay, visit www.visitscotland.com
5 more ... spectacular Scottish views
Dunnottar Castle, Stonehaven
The view of the castle itself, from the clifftop path as you approach, is pretty spectacular. And once you get there (several hundred, exhausting steps later – but it’s worth it) the vista is breathtaking. It’s the stuff of adventures – seascapes, dramatic cliffs, ruins and more …
www.dunnottarcastle.co.uk
Glenfinnan Viaduct
The awe-inspiring Glenfinnan viaduct carries the railway to Glenfinnan Station across a 1000-foot span, 100 feet above the ground. The Jacobite steam train runs from here to Fort William and Mallaig in summer months with regular trains available the rest of the year and Harry Potter fans will recognise it as the route the Hogwarts Express takes in the movies.
www.visitscotland.com
Applecross Peninsula
Whether you take the heart-in-mouth Alpine pass road (the Bealach nam Bo from Kishorn) or the "coward’s way" round by Shieldaig and along the coast, Applecross is a beautiful place to visit. At the top of Bealach, the views are jaw-dropping, with panoramas to the Outer Hebrides and south to the Kintail mountains.
www.applecross.uk.com
Glasgow Tower
The countryside doesn’t have all the best outlooks. From the top of the Glasgow Tower at Glasgow Science Centre on the banks of the Clyde, you can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the city, the Clyde and the landscapes beyond. State-of-the-art technology helps you zoom in to places of interest to discover more, all while keeping your feet firmly rooted in the cabin.
www.glasgowsciencecentre.org
Eilean Donan Castle
It’s one of Scotland’s most famous sights, the view across the loch to lovely Eilean Donan. Romantic, picture-postcard perfect, this is a much-photographed vista admired by locals and tourists alike. You can walk across the bridge and explore almost every part of the castle, and learn more about the surrounding area.
www.eileandonancastle.com
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