I DO enjoy a bit of liver with fava beans and a nice Chianti, but I would suggest the best match for pan-fried lamb’s liver is a Pinot Noir. A good example of a Pinot from Burgundy will have the right body as well as an earthiness that will echo the savoury notes in the food. The Cote d’Or in Burgundy has the ideal climate for growing this tricky grape. You need a cool climate to ripen the grapes perfectly allowing them to impart all of the rich, savoury depth that you want in the glass. The region also provides a dazzling array of styles from the one grape, so you’re bound to find one that suits your palate, and your pocket.

If you want to push the boat out, look for a Gevrey-Chambertin or a Nuits-St-Georges which tend to have more of a tannic structure than many of their neighbours. Volnay and Santenay have more elegance and finesse, and they would still work with the liver.

Gevrey-Chambertin Nicolas Potel 2013 (Waitrose, £39.50). This is a classically styled Gevrey with lots of substance and bags of character. It’s perfect with game, casserole and (of course) liver.

If £40 is too much of a stretch, try a bottle of Maranges 1er Cru Nicolas Potel 2012 (Majestic, £19.99 limited availability). Maranges is a little-known AC to the south of the Cote de Beaune, where you’ll find some excellent wines at a fraction of the price of the big names.

Some New World Pinots would work with Geoff’s dish, but try to avoid the overly fruity ones, which are products of too warm a climate. This doesn’t suit the grape and would lead to an awful match with the liver.