Confit evolved in southern France as a method of preserving meats for times like this, and this week's recipe should provide a warming meal combining comfort, succulence and flavour.
It's important to salt-cure the duck legs before cooking them, and adding a few spices or herbs will infuse the meat with subtle flavours. Though at first glance it's a hefty outlay, the cooking fat can be used three or four times – once cooled, pass it through a fine sieve, cover and refrigerate.
The accompanying sarladaise potato dish enhances the flavour of the confit and also uses duck fat besides garlic and parsley. Cooking mashed potatoes in a non-stick mould gives them a gorgeous silkiness and golden crispy edges, and represents the type of rustic French side dish everyone loves.
CONFIT DUCK LEGS AND SARLADAISE POTATOES
Serves 6
6 duck legs
1kg duck fat
1 small bunch of thyme
2 cloves of garlic, peeled
2 bay leaves
10 black peppercorns
2 whole star anise
Set the oven to approximately 120C/gas mark 0.5. Lightly season the duck legs and fry them in a heavy-based pan with vegetable oil until light golden. Melt the duck fat in a large, deep pan and add the thyme, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns and star anise. Place the sauteed duck legs in the fat, ensuring they are fully submerged, then bring the fat up to 85C and transfer to the oven for about 1.5 hours or until the meat is very tender (the bone should come away from the meat with little effort). Allow the legs to cool in the fat then carefully transfer them to a tray to drain off the excess fat.
SARLADAISE POTATOES
1kg medium-sized maris piper or golden wonder potatoes, peeled
1tbsp finely chopped parsley
100ml melted duck fat
2 cloves of garlic
A pinch of salt
Cook the potatoes in salted water until tender, then strain them and place them back on the stove in the pan. Once dry, mash the potatoes until light and fluffy. Place the mashed potatoes in a bowl, add the parsley and duck fat and mix well.
Lightly grease six non-stick round moulds and place them in the fridge to set, then fill each mould with the potato mixture and level them off. Place the moulds in a deep baking tray and pour vegetable oil into the tray until it reaches halfway up the sides of the moulds.
Set the oven to 200C/gas mark 6. Place the tray in the oven for 15-20 minutes or until the surfaces start to turn golden brown, then remove the tray from the oven. Use a spatula or a pair of tongs to remove the moulds from the hot oil.
Gently turn the potatoes out on to a serving dish and keep them warm in a low oven.
SERVING
Lay the warm duck legs on a metal tray and place them under a hot grill for 3-4 minutes or until the skin is light brown and crispy. Serve with a portion of warm sarladaise potatoes and a crisp salad.
WINE MATCH
Cahors, 2007, Chateau Du Cedre, France (L'Art Du Vin, £18.20)
A powerful, well-balanced blend of malbec and tannat, this kicks off with an intense bouquet of smoke, chocolate and spices leading to flavours of red and black fruits.
Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond, Cameron House, Loch Lomond. Visit www.martin-wishart.co.uk or call 01389 722504.
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