The thought of driving to Berkshire on crowded motorways from our home in the Borders does not fill us with glee, but the idea of staying and dining at the Waterside Inn at Bray, where the talented Michel Roux has held three Michelin stars for the past 20 years, means the journey takes on a different complexion.

Even so, we decide not to do the 350-mile journey in one hop. Instead we opt for the gently-does-it approach, enjoying the scenery as we go, peeling off from the fast roads now and again to savour a hidden inn or small hotel. In the Yorkshire dales, the roads climb and dip past old stone farmhouses and cottages; through rolling moors and meadows. We open the sunroof to hear the rippling sound of a curlew, while a lapwing rolls and tumbles over the fields, calling its country name, "peewit, peewit".

On reaching the village of Hetton, near Skipton, we pull up at the Angel Inn. This is where Dennis and Juliet Watkins came in 1983 and banished chicken in a basket and scampi and chips. Pascal, Dennis's son, remembers it well. "It caused a cultural revolution in the Dales when my father banned chips from the menu. What, no chips?' they would call out when they gave us their order."

Undaunted, the Watkins family pressed on with a bar-brasserie operation and became known for good-value food and wonderful fish dishes on Fridays.

Since his father's death in 2004, Pascal and his mother have been following the same outstanding approach to their food, determined to offer tip-top service and value for money. We put it to the test with a bar supper, sampling such delights as a Little Moneybag, a delicate mix of seafood baked in crispy pastry and served with a lobster sauce. The Bolton Abbey mutton is outstanding, as is a roast pheasant with all the trimmings. What more could you want from a roadside inn deep in the heart of Yorkshire?

The next morning, we do the 180 miles or so to Cambridge, a city we have never before visited. On a perfect sunny day, we stroll down to the River Cam past the incredible chapel of King's College, named after King Henry VI. Looking down from the Clare Bridge, we see that a bit of lazy punting is going on. It is all too pretty for words.

After a bit of shopping, we repair to the newly opened Hotel du Vin, a short walk away. We are fans of this hotel chain, which has gently expanded across England and has dipped its toe into Scotland with a hotel in Edinburgh and One Devonshire Gardens in Glasgow. In Cambridge they have chosen a medieval building with plenty of quirky architectural features - and, of course, the French-style bistro for which the group is well known. There is an open kitchen, so we clock the food as it is being prepared and delivered to the other tables - much better than simply looking at a menu.

A nice range of wines is available by the glass - so, with our seared chicken livers on toasted brioche, pigeon with polenta, a sirloin steak grilled to perfection and calf's liver with bubble and squeak and bacon, we are able to sample different bottles.

The last leg of our journey takes us safely to Bray, a tiny village turned foodie's paradise. Surprisingly, we manage to drive past Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck without actually noticing it, before heading down Ferry Road and coming to a stop at the gently flowing River Thames, where the Waterside Inn is notched into the river bank. For a moment we pay homage to it, for this is where Michel and his older brother Albert brought fine dining to the English countryside in 1972, while still running the famous Le Gavroche in London. Their influence on British cooking is unparalleled, and to date they have trained more than 800 young chefs, many of whom are now famous in their own right.

We go inside and general manager Diego Masciaga greets us. Our lovely room, a mix of country-house style and a smattering of French chic, leads to an outside deck looking out over the river where skiffs go skimming by and Canada geese, swans and mallard ducks are in residence. Soon the smell of cooking is in the air. We dress and go down to the dining room, which overlooks the river (in summer you can dine on the terrace with the sound of water dancing around the tables), and Diego turns on the Italian charm. He is a natural host, who has been at the Waterside for two decades and is now working with Alain, Michel's son, who is chef patron.

In the dining room, over a glass of pink champagne, Diego takes us through the menu, gently probing our likes and dislikes until we make a decision. That's not easy. But pan-fried foie gras with caramelised slices of orange melts in the mouth and bursts with flavour, while the scallops stuffed with coral mousse in a lemon-scented broth have a deep taste of the sea. Fillets of sole with a broad-bean mousse, baby leeks and a champagne sauce with sorrel are also melt-in-the-mouth gorgeous, while the rabbit with celeriac, armagnac sauce and preserved chestnuts is so good that it has been on the Waterside menu for 35 years.

Need to Know The Angel Inn, Hetton, Near Skipton, North Yorkshire (01756 730263) www.angelhetton.co.uk A double studio room costs from £130 (bed and breakfast) per night. Dinner from £20. Hotel du Vin, Trumpington Street, Cambridge (01223 227330) www.hotelduvin.com Standard double room from £140, dinner from £25. The Waterside Inn, Ferry Road, Bray (01628 771966) www.waterside-inn.co.uk Superior double room with breakfast from £260 per night. The tasting menu is £95.50.