15 things to see at the V&A Dundee

This winged tiara is really quite spectacular – containing 2,500 different diamonds set within a gold and silver frame. It is particularly relevant for the V&A Dundee having been commissioned by the Duchess of Roxburghe in 1935 while she resided in Floors Castle near Kelso. The dramatic shape is inspired by the winged helmets worn by the heroines of Wagner's opera cycle Der Ring des Nibelungen, with the name Valkyrie coming from the eponymous figures of Norse mythology. Valkyrie tiaras were originally worn on the stage before being adopted by fashionable aristocrats in the early the 20th century, but by the 1930s fashions had changed and they began to fall out of favour. As a result, this particular tiara is the last of its type made by Cartier, and therefore a little slice of history.

2. Book of Hours

Also known as the ‘Playfair Hours’, this 15th century book is the oldest object in the Scottish Design Galleries. Made in northern France around 1480, the exquisitely painted book contains (like most Book of Hours) Christian text, prayers and psalms. Yet each book was slightly unique, and this one was evidently intended for a Scottish owner as it includes several Scottish saints, including St Monan.

3. Paisley Shawl

Think ‘Scotland’ and ‘design’ and it won’t be long until the Paisley pattern springs to mind. The teardrop-shaped print originated in Persia, but was produced en masse by weavers in the Renfrewshire town and quickly became popular across Europe (and synonymous with Paisley). The ‘imitation Indian’ shawl, as it was first known, became the town’s main product over the course of the nineteenth century, with the shawl on display here designed in Paisley by Charles Burgess in 1845.

4. Jacobite Garter

This garter, made around 1745, reads Our Prince is Brave Our Cause is Just and would have been used to express support of Prince Charles Edward Stuart’s claim to the throne. Originally one of a pair, it would have been worn on the leg beneath long skirts to express a secret loyalty to the Jacobite cause. An interesting blend of fashion and Scottish political defiance.

5. Dennis the Menace comic strip, 1960

The spiky hair and stripy top of Dennis the Menace has been synonymous with rebellion for generations of children – with this particular strip designed for an edition of the Beano that was published in April 1960. The comic has an obvious connection with Dundee, as its publisher DC Thomson has been based in the city since 1905.

6. Throne Chair

Despite having a decidedly Indian appearance, this elaborate chair was actually designed by a Scot. Robert Home spent much of his career in India, travelling to Calcutta to set up a portrait painting business before being invited to serve as court artist to Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haidar of Oudh. This chair, made with gilt brass and velvet upholstery, was probably given by the King of Oudh to the British Governor-General of India.

7. Snap40

At the V&A Dundee, the designs on display aren’t just historic, with a state of the art Snap40 artificial intelligence device also on show. The wearable band uses AI to monitor the vital signs of a patient in hospital, alerting medical staff if there is a problem via wireless technology. It was designed by Edinburgh-based duo Christopher McCann and Stewart Whitin and is currently being rolled out in hospitals across the UK.

8. Highland Pistol

In the 17th and 18th centuries a Highland Pistol was a bit of a ‘must-have’ in the weaponry world, being sold across the globe to aristocrats, Highland regiments and even foreign royalty. The small village of Doune became renowned for manufacturing the pistols, and it was a gun made in Doune that reportedly began the American War of Independence. The distinctively, intricately decorated pistol on display in Dundee was signed by the gunsmith Alexander Campbell, made sometime between 1740 and 1760.

9. Fair Isle Jumper

Now a staple of golfers and country aristocrats, Fair Isle knitwear originated on an island of the same name in Shetland, where traditional techniques are used to create patterns with multiple colours. The jumpers gained widespread popularity in the 1920s when the future King Edward VIII wore one to play golf at St Andrews.

10. Model of Maggie’s Dundee

Maggie’s Centres offer free support for all people living with cancer, with the architecture of the buildings designed to provide an uplifting environment for those that use them. Maggie’s Dundee, designed by Frank Gehry and opened to the public in 2003, has a white harled exterior and a spectacular garden to help put visitors at ease. A model of the centre will be on display at the permanent Design Galleries in the V&A.

11. George Logan Bookcase

An excellent example of the ‘Glasgow Style’ design movement, this bookcase was designed by George Logan and shown in the pavilion of Scottish interiors firm Wylie & Lochhead. An interpretation of Art Nouveau, the ‘Glasgow Style’ was pioneered by Charles Rennie Mackintosh and was known for its geometric shapes – and particularly the Glasgow Rose. The rose features prominently on this mahogany bookcase, as well as mother of pearl and leather inserts.

12. Forth Road Bridge Photograph

Taken shortly after the bridge was completed in 1889, this photograph is probably one of the first that exist of the Forth Road Bridge. It was the first major structure in Britain to be built of steel – weighing more than 50,000 tonnes – and revolutionised Scottish travel by cutting the journey time from Aberdeen to London by more than half.

13. Christopher Kane Dress

Another exhibit that showcases Scottish fashion, this striking dress – featuring a pattern of entwined naked bodies – was created by designer Christopher Kane for his 2015 Autumn/Winter collection. He grew up in the village of Newarthill, near Motherwell, and has said that his Scottish upbringing formed one of his many sources of inspiration. Kane established his label with his sister and collaborator Tammy in 2006, and this particular dress was inspired by sketches he made during life drawing classes in his studio.

14. Hunter Wellington Boots, 1989

Much loved by yummy mummies and festival-goers, Hunter wellies first arrived on the market in 1956, and the design of the boots have remained unchanged ever since. They are made of 28 pieces of 100% rubber to ensure they are completely waterproof, with the material manufactured by what was the North British Rubber Company. That firm was founded in Fountainbridge Edinburgh by a Henry Lee Norris, who had a patent to produce vulcanized rubber and apply it to a range of purposes. His company provided boots for more than one million soldiers during the First World War, but later became known as more of a fashion brand and changed its name to Hunter in 2004. The company closed their Scottish factory in 2008 and moved production abroad.

15. Speedo Racer-back swimsuit, 1930s

The term ‘speedos’ might now be synonymous with extra-small swimming trunks, but this one-piece swimsuit provided a lot more coverage with its vest and shorts design. Despite this, it was still considered scandalous for its time and was banned on some beaches for being too revealing. For swimmers though it was a huge help, allowing them freedom of movement and drag-reduction compared to traditional long-sleeved woollen costumes. The Racer-back was produced by MacRae Knitting Mills (which later changed its name to Speedo), a firm founded by a Scottish emigrant who moved to Sydney in 1910.