Scotland's rising fashion designer Christopher Kane is soaring higher than ever after celebrating the most exciting time of his career.
Ahead of his Aw15 reveal at LFW, Kane's new wave continued along a fashion tsunami straight towards luxury fashion's central shopping sphere - Mount Street, London. The new kid on the Mayfair block sure knows how to live the dream - the substantial new Christopher Kane boutique designed by John Pawson has the heavyweight backing of luxury giant Kering. It was an early dream of the designer to have his own store after being inspired by the first ever Versace store to launch outside Italy.
In 1991 Versace opened a boutique in Glasgow within Ingram Street's shopping renaissance, The Italian Centre. Kane and sister Tammy are now famed for their regular visits to the ostentatious boutique throughout the 90s envisaging future-flashes of their brilliance to come. By 2006 Versace Glasgow had closed doors and the ascent of the Christopher Kane brand started to take hold following a hit MA graduate collection for Central Saint Martins. Donatella Versace recognized Kane and his work in the same spirit as her brother Gianni and instantly became Christopher's mentor. Christopher Kane designed for Versus, a label created by Versace for Donatella's protégés from 2009 until 2012.
Kane's skill for craftsmanship juxtaposed with straight lines and nature was proved yet again on his latest runway at Tate Modern's Turbine Hall. The collection referenced 70s disco & undeniable glamour. Latex glimmer girls glistened in ruby and cobalt blue. Zig-zagged silk struck like lightening bolts onto sheer dresses - the shock features apparently represent an electric orgasm. Pleats sharply carved 70's loving suede and velveteen into contemporary womenswear. This was a grown up collection that flashed future heritage details including flower petal cut outs and the safety belt first featured in the designer's MA graduate collection. On reflection of Christopher Kane's accelerating success it doesn't feel a bit out of place that his debut boutique just opened in one of the most sought after luxury retailing addresses in the world. He joins heritage hard hitters such as Balenciaga, Celine and Pringle of Scotland, who also had something to celebrate during LFW.
Pringle of Scotland hosted a series of events including a private champagne reception, runway show and viewing of an extraordinary exhibition. The exhibition 'Fully Fashioned: The Pringle of Scotland Story' includes collaborative works with a variety of Scottish artists to celebrate the brand's 200 year Anniversary. Three short films archiving an exploration into knitwear's ever evolving story choreographed by the acclaimed dancer Michael Clarke played out alongside iconic brand imagery by legendary fashion photographer Albert Watson. Taking two centuries of heritage into account, the bicentennial celebrations, housed in the Serpentine Sackler Gallery were a spectacular display. 'Fully Fashioned: The Pringle of Scotland Story' opens on 10 April at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh.
At Tate Britain, designer Jonathan Saunders tested the duality between the formal and fetish by presenting an amplified wardrobe that was inspired by his favourite early pop artists. Heavy futuristic eyewear fronted warped 60s vinyl in covers of modish mini lines of coinciding stripes and op art prints. A shoe collaboration with Christian Louboutin was reminiscent of artist Allen Jones' controversial work - criss cross tied up to the thigh pairs required three wardrobe assistants each. The illusion of prim restraint shown on Supermodel Jessica Stam's face on the runway was shattered when she got papped straight after backstage with her pain face on. Where's the pleasure? "Usually I try and balance it, but this time I went with unbalanced," explained Jonathan.
Amber le Bon was spotted front row at Holly Fulton's afternoon tea dance inside the British Fashion Council Tent at Somerset House. A clique of party girls caused a spectacular scene of snobbery in icy shades of white as they threw decadent strops in lingerie style slip dresses and Art Deco prints. Schiaparelli pink latex and lace created a dark foundation to a dreamy cavalcade of the sort of 'it' girls women love to equally hate and lust after.
In a Soho loft, a string trio belted out Madonna's 'Papa Don't Preach' while girls hung out wearing heritage bespoke kilts and Tam Tam's. The scene set by newcomer Samantha McCoach for her Le Kilt brand was reminiscent of a Robert Burns Poem. Graphic tees, sweatshirts and kilts scrawled with the work of sign painter Robert Gibson trigger the reference to the 80s Soho club also named Le Kilt. 'She Said Boom' a knitwear and kilt collection by Le Kilt and also the title of a post punk fanzine defined a reversed psychology in play at this performance.
Central Saint Martins normally turn out at least a few rough talents some of whom have went on to become fashion's modern day iconoclasts. Scottish student Charles Jeffrey splashed his male models with paint in primary colours then crudely tied them up into sharp silhouettes for his impressive graduate debut. Charles has already established himself as a regular contributor to Knick Night's Show Studio, watch that space.
It was in true style, that the renegades of the original went their own way. Philip Colbert "Popped the Catwalk" before things even got started. The pop artist who fronts The Rodnik Band presented eleven 2D artworks at a private viewing on the eve of LFW. Guests arrived in customary Lobster, Crab and Ham & Eggs to talk needlepoint, paint and sequins with the designer before he 'popped' to LA to attend the Vanity Fair Oscars Party.
Pam Hogg continued in her tradition of showing "off" schedule. The rock 'n' roll heritage of her brand attracts a cult following and the legend surrounding her shows is the stuff of dreams. A roll call of fashion and rock veterans including Debbie Harry, Rihanna, Kate Moss and Anita Pallenberg all count themselves among her illustrious audience of loyal fans.
Nick Cave's arrival at her show with Noel Fielding and Primal Scream's Bobby Gillespie stoked insane excitement outside where a ridiculously long queue formed from a chaotic frenzy of guests surrounding the main entrance to the venue. Inside, a hedonistic crowd of rock royalty, club legends and renegade models sat in anticipation for the show for over an hour. There was a lot of calling out and whooping before the track "Fade to grey" by Visage started to sound in homage to Steve Strange. A howling wolf silenced the air before 'Little Red Riding Hood' took into the woods with villainness Alice Dellal to plot a plan with a White Queen. DJ Billy Woods was seen leaving the building with a posse of metallic leather clad pirates ahead of his exclusive downtown gig at Horse Meat Disco - the after-after party that proved to be the hottest ticket of the weekend. Yes Pam, Bowie would approve of this Diamond Dog.
Why are you making commenting on The Herald only available to subscribers?
It should have been a safe space for informed debate, somewhere for readers to discuss issues around the biggest stories of the day, but all too often the below the line comments on most websites have become bogged down by off-topic discussions and abuse.
heraldscotland.com is tackling this problem by allowing only subscribers to comment.
We are doing this to improve the experience for our loyal readers and we believe it will reduce the ability of trolls and troublemakers, who occasionally find their way onto our site, to abuse our journalists and readers. We also hope it will help the comments section fulfil its promise as a part of Scotland's conversation with itself.
We are lucky at The Herald. We are read by an informed, educated readership who can add their knowledge and insights to our stories.
That is invaluable.
We are making the subscriber-only change to support our valued readers, who tell us they don't want the site cluttered up with irrelevant comments, untruths and abuse.
In the past, the journalist’s job was to collect and distribute information to the audience. Technology means that readers can shape a discussion. We look forward to hearing from you on heraldscotland.com
Comments & Moderation
Readers’ comments: You are personally liable for the content of any comments you upload to this website, so please act responsibly. We do not pre-moderate or monitor readers’ comments appearing on our websites, but we do post-moderate in response to complaints we receive or otherwise when a potential problem comes to our attention. You can make a complaint by using the ‘report this post’ link . We may then apply our discretion under the user terms to amend or delete comments.
Post moderation is undertaken full-time 9am-6pm on weekdays, and on a part-time basis outwith those hours.
Read the rules hereComments are closed on this article